Kevyn and Me: Neutrals

Neutral looks are nice. Sometimes I don’t want to look like a total skank, so I go for a neutral look. Its good for meeting grandma or when you want to fool guys into thinking you don’t wear makeup. Seriously though, after going all out its nice to do something that looks more basic, even if you are using JUST as many products as a dramatic look.

Naomi Campbell, my muse.

Naomi Campbell, my muse.

Guess what!? Not wearing the hair turban today!

Naomi Campbell, I am not.

Naomi Campbell, I am not.

Time to break out the foundation, now the instruction actually calls for a warm-toned foundation. I’m not sure why you would want to do that if you were cool toned, but I say use your normal foundation and bronze yourself up if you want. We don’t want any foundation masks-o-orange here.

I'm wearing ALL THE FOUNDATION

Step 1: Foundation under eyes, around the mouth, center of the forehead and down the bridge of your nose. This is pre-blending. Step 2: apply translucent powder.

I did blend in my foundation and make sure all my boo-boos were covered, then I added the face powder. We don’t need a picture of that, right? Ok, straight to the brows.

Step 3: Groom and fill in those brows. Try to not make them look like caterpillars.

Step 3: Groom and fill in those brows. Try to not make them look like caterpillars.

That scary dude-ish picture above is something that I probably shouldn’t plaster all over the internet. But I will, because I care about the process and showing the ugly, ugly steps toward looking awesome.

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Step 4: Apply a neutral brown eye shadow to the inner eye, outer corner, bottom lash line and a little on the inner corner. Step 5: Pale flesh toned eye shadow down the center.

Then we blend, and we apply more as needed, blend again, so it doesn’t look patchy and is smooth like buttah.

Step 6: Curl those lashes and apply some brown-black mascara.

Step 6: Curl those lashes and apply some brown-black mascara.

The next step is to use a blush brush and use apricot blush onto the cheekbones, chin, sides of neck and temples as well as the hairline. I used a blush that barely showed up on me. So not sure if it was too light or the product itself. So yes, I do have blush on, but its not the intended result. We’ve accepted this, and have moved on.

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Step 8: Apply a neutral lip liner and fill in.

Step 8-9: Apply a neutral lip liner and fill in. Then apply a neutral pinky-beige lip color. Blot/reapply... rinse, repeat.

Step 9: Then apply a neutral pinky-beige lip color. Blot/reapply… rinse, repeat. Step 10: use a lighter shade of neutral lip color and apply to the center with your finger tip.

By using a darker lip pencil, followed by a lighter lipstick, followed by an even lighter lipstick (or gloss, whatever you want, its your world) you get a 3D lip effect and is my favorite way to wear a neutral lip. If I don’t do something simliar to this with the “nude” colored lipsticks, I usually look fresh out the morgue.

Finished look. Smile not included.

Finished look. Smile not included.

Different lighting + forced happiness.

Different lighting + forced happiness.

Products:

L’oreal Visible Lift Smooth Makeup, Absolute Nude Beige

Urban Decay Naked Palette (I used Buck and Virgin)

Beautique Lip Pencil Natural

MAC Cremesheen Lipstick Creme D’ Nude (main lip color)

BH Cosmetics 32 Color Lip Palette (the lighter colored neutral in the center of my lip)

NYX Cosmetics Eyebrow Kit With Stencil Set, Blondes (I used the auburn color)

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Kevyn and Me: Simplicity

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simplicity… we’ll see about that.

The best place to start is at the beginning. On page 48 of Making Faces is the first full face instruction. Kevyn notes that any of these looks can be modifired to suit your taste or skin tone. This book was written in 1997, so its reasonable to think that some of the looks might be a little dated, but the basic principles apply.

Fresh faced and ready to go.

Fresh faced and ready to go.

Yeah… so about once a month I get these fun breakouts. Some of you can relate, I’m sure. But this is the face I started with today. We are going to sparingly (ha! ha-ha, ha… ha.) apply concealer to even out the skin tone and remove redness.

Even though my expression says "not amused" I'm having a good time here.

Step 1: Apply concealer sparingly

So the next step is to apply a soft brown creme eye shadow. I don’t have creme eye shadow. I have a knock off UD Naked palette made by Makeup Academy called Undressed (which I love), that’ll do. I selected the matte medium brown shade. Top row of the palette, 3rd from the left.

Apply to the crease

Step 2. Soft brown eye shadow to crease from inner to outer corner.

I chose a Stila mascara I had from some gift with purchase. It was nice and light, gave a soft eyelash look that I think works for a look called “simplicity.”

Very subtle. My camera can't pick it up.

Step 3: Curl lashes and apply light coat of mascara

For the blush I have one by E.L.F. that is a very pretty pink. The book calls for liquid blusher, so I think it fits the bill.

Step 4: Pink liquid blush to cheeks, temples, chin and lips.

Step 4: Pink liquid blush to cheeks, temples, chin and lips.

Looking less dead! PROGRESS! The last step is to use a flesh toned lip pencil to refine the lip shape, you can fill it in if you want.

Step 5: Flesh toned lip pencil. I also added a little lip balm.

Step 5: Flesh toned lip pencil. I also added a little lip balm.

Done-zo. Remember this very much a no-makeup, makeup look. Its your bare face but slightly improved. I can see using this look on the weekends or running to the grocery store. Let me know if you try this!

Finished look

Finished look

My weapons.

My weapons.

Products/Tools:

TARTE Amazonian Clay Concealer Brush Bamboo Handle

SOHO eyeshadow brush

Sigma Blending – E25

Stila Mascara (discontinued)

Beautique eye brow pencil in Dark Blonde

MaxFactor nude lip pencil (Dollar tree!!)

MUA Undressed palette

Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage SC-1

Yes To Carrots Lip Butter, Berry

e.l.f. HD Blush, Headliner, 0.34 Ounce

How to: Concealer

Finished foundation only face.

Finished foundation only face.

My foundation steps can be found in this post. As you can tell in the picture above. I still have noticeable blemishes on my chin, below my nose and random spots.

I’m currently using Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage
in SC-1 although I think now that summer is here SC-2 would be better.

Sorry for the flash, but there is concealer on my hand.

Sorry for the flash, there is concealer on my hand!

I apply it to my hand to warm up the concealer, then I used Tarte’s concealer brush to pick up some of the color to apply to my face. Using light strokes I apply it to all the trouble areas.

GRRR COVERING SPOTS!

GRRR COVERING SPOTS!

I tend to have visible capillaries around my nostrils and since my skin is sort of translucent, I also apply some to my eyelids if I’m not doing a ton of eye work.

Concealer Nose!!!

Concealer Nose!!!

You can also apply to the tops of your lips (the cupid’s bow) and the bottom along the lip line to create the appearance of a more voluptuous lip… you know, like a porn star! But way classier, because we classy.

Set it and forget it.

Set it and forget it.

Follow up with your favorite face powder to set your foundation and concealer. I put this on my face by rolling or lightly pressing it to my skin. I’m not using it like you would expect as I don’t want to rub off all my foundation. Some may choose to use a poof, whatever works!

BAM!

Bitch, I’m flawless

Series: Kevyn and Me – Making my way through Making Faces

I’ve always loved makeup.  In Jr. High, my friend and I were probably the first ones in our class who began to experiment with makeup (although the caked on blue eye shadow was NOT the look we should have been going for.)  Then as I grew out of the brown lip liner/frost lipstick phase, into the purple lip liner phase, and now to nude lip liner – who knew it goes with everything?! My own makeup style was basic, a few chances here and there, but I didn’t possess any real skills.

It’s not that I was terrible with makeup. I just knew enough to get by, not look like a clown, and not really draw too much attention to myself. I got lost somewhere between “good enough” and “I don’t give a fuck” when it came to my makeup choices. As I entered my 30’s, I started caring less about what people thought, and now with Pinterest and sites like reddit.com I was being exposed to a whole world of makeup that I didn’t see in my little bubble at home.

I started reading online tutorials, Wayne Goss of GossMakeupArtist on Youtube taught me so much about technique and opened my eyes to different ways of doing things. In one of his videos he mentioned Kevyn Aucoin. I have never heard of Kevyn or his products. Doing a little research all kinds of makeup artists were talking about his book, Making Faces and how it was a must for anyone who wanted to know more about makeup or become an artist.

Legendary

Legendary

I’ve read the book, I’ve marveled at the photos. And now I’m ready to tackle changing my own mind and maybe YOUR mind about ways to use makeup. I’m starting at the beginning and will be documenting my take on each of his gorgeous makeups he does on famous faces. I might not get it 100% right but that’s not the point. The point is learning and challenging myself when it comes to makeup. Stay tuned!

XOXO

The Dish

How To: Use a stipple brush to apply foundation

One of my latest greatest discoveries for getting a flawless foundation finish is using a stipple brush. e.l.f. makes a great and CHEAP stipple brush you can buy if you want to try this out. Here’s the one I used: e.l.f. stipple brush

Here's to hormones!
Helloooooo hormonal acne!

I’ll be using MAC Mineralize liquid foundation in NC15. I like to apply it to my hand when I’m doing my own. If you apply to a client you can use a palette.

MAC Mineralize NC15, is a light to medium coverage.

MAC Mineralize NC15, light to medium coverage.

Then stipple! I stipple on my hand and use the same motion to stipple on my face. This causes little brush strokes that over lap each other.

Loading the brush.

Loading the brush.

Apply to face.

Apply to face.

Keep doing that until your face is covered. If you have more redness you can always add more foundation and go back over an area.  I have an uneven skin tone due to blemishes and freckles but because I like a sheerer coverage. I only apply once  and then add concealer as needed.

Finished foundation only face.

Finished foundation only face.

As you can see I still have some trouble spots after only applying foundation. But overall my skin tone is more even. I’ll go over concealing coming up.

Easy peasy, right? Have you tried this method before?

Stick with me!

This is my first real go at using wordpress and blogging in general. Just be patient with me as I tweak and improve my photos and posts. I’m excited to help others navigate the world of makeup! Let me know any ideas or questions you have and I can try to work them in.

XOXO

The Dish